Pizza
If there’s one thing that Italians and American college students can agree on, it’s a love for pizza. There’s just something about those crispy, fluffy bread circles topped with tangy tomato sauce and melted cheese that makes anyone’s mouth water.
There are many, many ways to make a pizza from the Neapolitan classic to the sugary fast food that’s loaded with as many toppings as there are cities in Italy, and today I will be looking at how three chefs make pizza their way.
Today’s recipes come from the show on Epicurious called 4 Levels of Pizza where we saw how Stephen, a level 1 chef, Beth, a level 2 chef, and Sim, a level 3 chef, make their idea of a perfect pizza then a food scientist comes in to review their work. I will be making all 3 recipes, tasting them myself, and determining once and for all which one, in my humble opinion, is the best!
But first, I’m going to be like food scientist, Rose Trout, and break down each recipe to see how they’re unique.
The Dough
Of course the base for any pizza is the dough, that puffed up yeasted dough that has a slight chew to it while also being light and crisp. Your standard pizza dough will contain flour to provide structure, water to moisten the flour and create gluten, yeast to make it rise, salt to add flavor, a bit of sugar to feed the yeast and help it do it’s job, and in some cases a bit of olive oil to add flavor and a bit of richness.
Stephen used a store bought pizza dough, if you don’t trust your baking skills or don’t have time to wait for pizza dough to rise, then pre-made dough is an acceptable option.
Beth made her own dough, and the advantage of doing so is you know exactly what goes into the dough, and therefore you know what goes into you.
Sim also made his own dough, but took it a few steps further by adding a pre-ferment known as biga, a mixture of flour, water and yeast that’s left to sit out for a while, and a bit of sourdough starter. When combined, both add a lot of flavor to the dough and help the dough become puffy and delicious.
The Sauce
There’s not much debate that the king of pizza sauces is a slightly sweet and tangy tomato sauce, or marinara.
Fun fact: A lot of pizzerias will prepare a raw tomato sauce for their pizza, they’ll simply combined crushed tomatoes with some oil, garlic and seasonings. The idea is that as the pizza bakes, the sauce cooks along with the dough.
In true level 1 fashion, Stephen used a jarred pizza sauce. Like with the dough, jarred sauces are fine if you’re short on time, as long as you pick a sauce that has no additives or weird chemicals.
Beth used a homemade sauce recipe from her mother-in-law, Sadie, keeping it simple with canned whole tomatoes along with some garlic, chili flakes and basil. Again, similar to the dough, making your own sauce has the benefit of you knowing exactly what went into it.
Sim also made his own sauce using some canned whole tomatoes and pureed tomatoes, offering textural and flavor contrast, along with some onions and a splash of Worcestershire sauce for flavor. Sim also adds a pinch of sugar to his sauce, which cuts the acidity of the tomatoes so the sauce will cook in half the time.
Canned whole tomatoes are perfectly acceptable for marinara sauces, even for professional chefs, as these tomatoes are often picked at the peak of ripeness, lending a lovely natural sweetness to the sauce, in fact many would argue that canned tomatoes work even better for sauces than fresh. Even better is if you can get ahold of San Marzano tomatoes.
Say Cheese!
Looking between dishes like pizza, lasagna, stuffed shells, and charcuterie boards, it seems like a good handful of Italian food is meant to deliver as much cheese to your mouth as humanly possible.
Of course the classic cheese duo for pizza is mozzarella for stringiness and parmesan for saltiness, but it’s possible to change it up a bit.
Stephen used pre-shredded part skim milk mozzarella, the problem with pre-shredded cheeses is they’re a bit dried out plus they are often tossed with preservatives.
Beth grated her own mozzarella, or mozz as you’d say in New York, and also uses Pecorino Romano in place of parmesan. Pecorino Romano is a firm and salty cheese like parmesan, but is made with sheep’s milk instead of cow’s milk, and offers a much saltier bite plus a bit of extra flavor.
Sim used a combination of fresh mozzarella, grated parmesan, shaved parmesan, and a creamy cow’s milk cheese called bell paese, all of which lend their own textures and flavors for a very interesting tasting pizza.
Toppings
One fun part about pizza is the variety of toppings you can use to personalize it and give you something exciting to bite into.
Stephen used tri-colored bell peppers and mushrooms that he put on the pizza raw and also sprinkled a bit of peppery arugula on top of his finished pizza. Putting the veggies on the pizza raw is fine, but as they cook the water from the veggies, especially mushrooms, has a tendency to seep out and could make the crust soggy.
Beth simply sprinkled some sliced basil on top of her finished pizza as it’s the way her husband likes it. The classic flavor combination of tomatoes, cheese and basil is certainly one that’s hard to beat.
Sim used mushrooms, Italian sausage, and black olives, the first two of which he pre-cooked. Cooking the toppings head of time eliminates the water and can help maintain a crispy crust, plus meat really does need to be fully cooked before it goes onto a pizza.
When selecting toppings for your pizza, remember that less is more. The more toppings you load onto your pizza, the more the dough will be weighed down and might not get cooked all the way, so limit yourself to about 3-4 different toppings. Also, make sure your toppings are placed on evenly so that you get a little bit of everything with each bite.
Assembly
Stephen first rolled out his dough on a floured surface with a rolling pin then placed that onto a pan, then spread a big spoonful of his sauce on top, followed by his cheese and toppings. He also stuffed a bit of cheese inside of the edges of his crust to offer a gooey, cheesy bite.
Beth also used a rolling pin to roll out her dough, but placed it onto a sheet pan. She then sprinkles some of her mozzarella onto the dough to act as a barrier between the dough and the wet sauce, followed by a thin layer of her sauce, and before putting it in the oven she brushed the edges of the dough with oil to help the crust brown nicely.
Sim used his hands to flatten and shape the dough and placed that onto a pizza peel, this is followed by a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkling of grated parmesan, blobs of his sauce, his cheese and his toppings.
When rolling out pizza dough, it’s important to remember that it does not have to be a perfect circle or rectangle, it just needs to taste really good. Also, when adding your sauce, keeping it in a thin layer is ideal because you don’t want the wet sauce to get into your dough and potentially make the crust soggy in the center.
Baking
Stephen baked his pizza on a perforated pizza pan in a 450 degree oven for 10-12 minutes. The perforated pan allows the hot air from the oven to get to the underside of the pizza to help it cook through.
Beth baked her pizza on a sheet pan in a 500 degree oven for 12 minutes, the higher temperature offering a darker brown and crispier crust.
Sim used a countertop pizza oven that mimics the effect you’d get from a wood fired pizza oven, offering the pizza to bubble up in spots and get a thin and crispy crust at the bottom.
All 3 of the pizzas shown on 4 Levels of Pizza look incredible, but which one truly is the best? That’s what I’m about to find out!
Also, if any of these pizzas seem appealing enough that you want to try making them yourself, fear not because I will be sharing the recipes as well. (Based on what I saw them use in the video.
Level 1 Pizza (Stephen’s Recipe)
Makes one 10-inch pizza
8oz premade pizza dough
Flour, for dusting
1/2 cup jarred tomato and basil sauce
1 cup pre-shredded part-skim milk mozzarella cheese
1/2 each of a red, orange, and yellow bell pepper, diced
4 medium sized cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
1/4 cup fresh arugula
Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
-Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
-Roll out your premade pizza dough on a floured surface, then transfer to a perforated pizza pan. Spread on a generous layer of the tomato sauce, leaving about 1 inch of space around the edges, then sprinkle on most of the cheese. If you want to, place a bit of cheese along the edge of the crust and fold the edges over to stuff the crust.
-Combine the bell peppers and mushrooms in a bowl, then scatter them on top in an even layer. Bake for 10-12 minutes, or until the edges of the pizza are browned and the cheese is melted. Finish with a sprinkling of arugula and a drizzle of olive oil.
Level 2 Pizza (Beth’s Recipe)
Makes two 15-inch pizzas
For the dough:
1 packet (1/4 oz) active dry yeast
1 1/2 cups warm water
1 1/2 tsp sugar
4 cups all purpose flour, plus more if needed
3/4 tsp salt
2 tbsp olive oil, plus more for drizzling
For the Sauce:
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 can (28oz) crushed tomatoes
10 big leaves of fresh basil
Salt and pepper, to taste
For cheese and toppings:
1 block (8oz) whole milk mozzarella cheese
1/2 cup grated Pecorino Romano
Olive oil, for brushing
Sliced fresh basil, for topping
-For the dough, sprinkle the yeast into the warm water along with the sugar. Stir to dissolve, then let it sit for about 5 minutes to activate.
-Meanwhile, dump your flour and salt into the bowl of an electric mixer with the dough hook attachment. Mix on low, then slowly drizzle in the olive oil and the yeast mixture. Increase the speed to medium, then let it run for about 5 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, then cover with a clean towel and let it sit in the fridge for at least 24 hours.
-To make the sauce, heat up the olive oil with the sliced garlic until it starts becoming fragrant. Add the crushed tomatoes, basil, and about a teaspoon of salt and pepper. Bring it to a simmer, then let the sauce cook for about 45 minutes, or until reduced and thickened.
-Preheat the oven to 500 degrees and oil a wide baking sheet.
-Pinch off half of your dough and roll it on a floured surface until it’s very thin. Transfer to the pan, then brush with olive oil and top with an even layer of mozzarella, leaving about 1 inch around the sides. Spread on a thin layer of the sauce, then sprinkle with grated Pecorino Romano. Bake for 12 minutes, or until the edges are golden brown and the cheese is melted and bubbly. Top with basil, then slice and serve.
Level 3 Pizza (Sim’s Recipe)
Makes four 10-inch pizzas
Time: 3 days
For the Biga:
3/4 tsp active dry yeast
6oz water
10oz bread flour
For the Dough:
1 1/2tsp active dry yeast
3 1/2 cups warm water
4 cups bread flour
1/2 cup all purpose flour\
4 tsp salt
4tbsp sourdough starter (optional)
Olive oil
For the Sauce:
1/4 cup olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 can (28oz) good quality whole peeled tomatoes
14 oz tomato puree
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp dried oregano
2 bay leaves
1 large bunch of fresh basil leaves, roughly torn
A pinch of sugar
Salt and pepper, to taste
For Cheese and Toppings:
Olive oil, for drizzling
3 balls of fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
1/2 cup grated parmesan
1 wedge of parmesan, shaved with a vegetable peeler
8oz bell paese
8oz mixed wild mushrooms, cooked (see below)
4 Italian sausages, cooked and thinly sliced (see below)
16 pitted kalamata olives, pitted and cut into quarters
Small fresh basil leaves
-To make the Biga, combine the flour, water and yeast in a small bowl. Cover it with a clean kitchen towel then leave it on the counter for at least 24 hours.
-The next day, make the main dough by sprinkling the yeast over the water in the bowl of an electric mixer with a dough hook attachment and stirring to dissolve, let that sit for 5 minutes so the yeast can bloom. Once the water is bubbly, chop up the biga made earlier then add that along with the flour, water, salt, and starter (if using). Mix on low speed until combined, then increase the speed to medium and let it run until the dough becomes smooth.
(You could knead the dough by hand, but with how sticky it’ll be I think you’re better off using the mixer)
-Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover it with a towel, then let it rise in the fridge for 24 hours.
-To make the sauce, heat up the oil in a saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, then cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onions become golden brown. Make a well in the center of the onions, then add the garlic and cook for another minute.
-Add the remaining sauce ingredients plus a teaspoon each of salt and pepper, then bring it to a simmer and let it cook for an hour and a half, or until thickened and you can no longer taste the acidity in the tomatoes.
(Look, I know most of us don’t have a countertop woodfired oven, although if you did then compliments to the chef, but my recipe will be adapted to more of a home cook environment)
-Preheat the oven to 500 degrees F with an oiled baking stone inside. (550 if your oven has that option)
-To make each pizza, pinch out a big ball of your dough, then use your fingers to press out the air bubbles and flatten it into an even thinness. Place the dough onto a pizza peel or inverted sheet pan.
-Drizzle a bit of olive oil onto the pizza then sprinkle on a layer of grated parmesan. Scoop up small spoonfuls of the sauce and place that on top in blobs. Lay on slices of fresh mozzarella on top, then tear up some bell paese and place that wherever you didn’t put mozzarella. Top with a layer of mushrooms, sausage, and olives.
-Transfer the pizza to the baking stone and bake for 8-10 minutes, or until the sides of the pizza have bubbled up and start to char. Finally, finish with a drizzle of olive oil, the shaved parmesan, and some basil leaves.
*To cook the sausages, lay them onto a parchment lined sheet tray and place them in the oven at 400 for about 30 minutes, or until they’re browned and fully cooked.
*For the mushrooms, toss them with olive oil, salt and pepper, then lay them onto a sheet pan. Roast in the oven for about 10-15 minutes, or until browned.
Ok, after all of that cheesy, doughy glory, it’s time for me to tell you what I thought of each finished pizza and which one I liked the best!
I feel like the level 1 is the kind of pizza I’d make if I was in college and wanted something that was both affordable and easy to make at the same time. The stuffed crust was a nice touch and the flavor combination of the peppers, mushrooms and arugula was nice, although I found my crust to be a bit too soft for my liking.
Level 2 had a very classic flavor combination and it was quite fun making the dough from scratch, and I really did taste the difference between then store bought pizza dough and the homemade, same deal with the sauce. However, I think I rolled out my crust a bit too thin as it was very crispy, almost cracker-like. I know some would like that, but I like a puffy crust on the end that I can chew on.
For as long as the Level 3 pizza took to make, it did end with some nice results. The crust had a nice soft texture while still being pliable enough to pick up, the sauce had a lot of flavor going on, the different cheeses lead to a salty and stretchy combo, and while I admittedly could’ve used more of the toppings it was quite nice.
While the level 3 was good and the level 1 was easy, I think I have to pick the level 2 pizza as my winner as I enjoyed the simplicity of it all.
